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When we finally pluck up the courage to purchase an expensive lens, we expect them to be perfect right? Unfortunately, no matter how good the lens is, there are always going to be minor differences when we attach it to our specific camera.
Often our camera bodies are made at a completely different time and usually in a completely different factory, so when we finally bring the two together there are often minor adjustments that we the user have to make to ensure we’re getting the best image possible from that specific lens.

So regardless of whether our lens is new or old, or if our camera body is new or old, many will say fine-tuning your lens to your camera body is crucial.

How to Calibrate your Lens

Technical Solutions D4S TIPS AF Fine‐Tuning If you find that certain lenses do not produce the desired results with autofocus, you can fine-tune autofocus for each lens using the AF fine‐tune option in the setup menu. For example, when I fine tune my Nikon 200-400mm f/4G VR lens, I always pick 400mm at f/4 for fine tuning, because that’s the focal length and aperture I use most of the time. Bartender free download. Whereas, for a prime lens like Nikon 85mm f/1.8G, I would fine tune at f/1.8, since that’s the aperture I typically use the most on that lens. More on this below.

Thankfully calibrating your lens isn’t difficult and if you’re going to do all of your lenses at the same time, it shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours to do them all. It’s worth pointing out now that this process is really to calibrate the autofocus on your camera to the desired lens and will not fix ‘soft’ focus lenses in any way. If your lens is soft when you manual focus with it, this process will not improve it.

What You Will Need

Sturdy tripod
Focus chart or ruler
Software to review results
Patience of a saint

Set your tripod and camera up at the same height as your chart or ruler and make sure the camera is level. Use a spirit level (usually on most tripods) if necessary.

Setting up Your Chart

Next, you’ll need to set up your focus chart. Although there are plenty of places online where you can download and print out focus charts, I personally don’t feel it’s all that necessary. I used a metal ruler that I had in the drawer and that seemed to work for me. In fact, you could just as easily use some packaging that has a lot of text on it.

The real trick here is to mount the focus chart/ruler at an angle so you can see the focus drop off. You just need to have a specific point to focus on and then other areas of detail around it to see where the actual focus is falling. As I said, I used a metal ruler as I could focus on a specific measurement number and then check what was in or out of focus around it.

I mounted mine on a stand at a downward angle and focused my camera halfway along the ruler.

Setting Up Your Camera and Tripod

Next up we’ll need to make a few adjustments on our camera setup and settings.

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First, you’ll need to place your camera and selected lens at the appropriate distance from the ruler. This distance is dependent on the focal length of the lens you’re calibrating and the easiest thing to do is check the details on this super handy chart from LensAlign. Their Distance Tool allows you to input your camera sensor size, your focal length and minimum aperture and it’ll give you the optimum distance you’ll need to do the test. Input your numbers and then set up your camera at the appropriate distance as recommends by the site.

Camera Settings

You’ll want to set your aperture to the smallest your lens will allow. For example, in this instance, I was calibrating my 50mm f/1.4 lens so I set my camera’s aperture to f1.4. Make sure you have adequate ambient lighting and that you’re shooting at a fast shutter speed to capture a very crisp image to avoid minor movement throwing off the focus adjustments. I had my ISO at 1600 as the noise wasn’t a concern because I wasn’t interested in printing these out.

Next, you’ll want to switch to live-view to enable you to zoom in and really nail the focus. It’s my recommendation that you should select the center focus point as well as choose the smallest focal point possible.

Once all that is done, it’s time to zoom in and focus on the center of the ruler and take a shot. Again, my advice would be to take at least three shots here so that you can get a broader look at the autofocus. Each time de-focus the image and then refocus again to test the autofocus properly.

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Importing and Checking your Images

All that’s left to do now is import your photos into editing software like Lightroom or Capture One. Importing your photos into an image capture software enables us to zoom in a lot further than on the back of a camera. Remember that the image on the back of your camera is a JPEG so zooming in a long way can make the image appear fuzzy, whereas importing them into software like Lightroom allows us to check the focus point accurately. Once you have imported your photos, zoom into the image so that the focus point is filling the frame. Now we can assess whether there is any fine tuning to be made with our autofocus.

Pro tip: Sometimes it can be hard to distinguish what is in focus and what isn’t, so a good trick can be to use the color picker and see what colors appear in the focal range. For example, most lenses will have aberrations and those aberrations are consistent in a digital file. Areas that are out of focus behind the focal point tend to have a green hue to them, and areas that are out of focus in front the focal point tend to have a magenta hue to them.

Making the Corrections

First off we’ll need to bring up our AF-Fine tune to turn it on and make the adjustments. This is the Nikon menus but the other cameras use a very similar name and process. For a Nikon DSLR, go to the menu with spanner icon and in there at the bottom, you have the Af Fine-Tune Menu. Go in there and then turn on the AF-Fine-Tune.

Note: I had a quick look for the Canon version and you can see how to access it here: Canon AF Fine tune.

So now that we have our AF Fine-Tune enabled, we can begin to make some adjustments. If we look back at our imported images and review them to see what can be improved.

If you feel that the camera’s autofocus is missing the mark consistently, then you’ll need to make some adjustments in the fine tune menu of your camera. So for example, if your autofocus is consistently focusing behind the intended focal point, you’ll need to adjust the autofocus fine tune with minus numbers to bring it back to where it needs to be. Conversely, if the autofocus is consistently focusing just in front of the intended focal point (closer to the camera), you’ll need to increase the autofocus fine tune with positive numbers.

For example in the image above you can see my 28 to 105 mm Lens was consistently back focusing, which meant that the fine tuning adjustments ended up being -13 in the fine tuning menu. This process can take several attempts to get it perfect so you may want to make large changes to begin with to start seeing the effect. Make the fine tune adjustment, take some more shots, review the images in L

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